Susanna Lau is a writer and editor based in London. Lau started her blog ‘Style Bubble’ in March 2006, paving the way for a new kind of fashion reporting that has since secured her seat in fashion’s esteemed front row. Her passion for spotlighting young and unknown talent saw her take on the role of editor at Dazed Digital, from 2008-2010 and she continues to reach a global audience with her unique aesthetic and personal observations on fashion. She spoke to LOOKK before taking her seat on the 1Hundred judging panel to share her opinions and advice on the industry…
What is it about fashion that drives your discovery of new designers?
The changes and developments of the cycle and the way that students are getting more and more ambitious with their ideas and plans.
Was there a specific moment when you decided to start your blog? What was the first post about?
I really didn’t have a specific moment. My first post was really boring – a list of ten things that I wanted to do with the blog – sort of like a ten commandments. I *think* I’ve vaguely stuck to the list but you always shoot yourself in the foot when you lay down the ‘rules’ of a blog or any publication.
When you write, who is it you’re writing for?
For friends who know me. This means that my text can be full of British-isms or just weird Susie-isms that not many people can understand apart from those that do know me. I really hate the idea of writing text that caters to everyone’s tastes – it would be impossible. The blog’s tone is very informal and very loose/haphazard and if ends up being a bit difficult to understand, so be it.
You left the role of Editor at Dazed Digital to pursue your own projects and spend more time on your blog – how important is it for you to maintain your independence in your work?
I’m actually one of those people that never really craved independence. I always thought I’d have a steady job and get a wage. With the way the blog has developed though, it became impossible to be wholly devoted to one job and come home to another. You have to give your all when you’re working at Dazed and it wasn’t fair for me not to do that. As a result, I’ve come to really enjoy dictating what I do in my own time and carving it up as I see fit.
How do you see your role inside the fashion industry?
It’s becoming more of a blogger/journalist hybrid as I’m doing more writing work but still, the primary role is ‘blogger’, but one that knows the rules/etiquette of this curiously ‘closeted’ industry. I suppose it’s up to the people in the industry to dictate my role. I’m just happy meeting people, discovering their work, seeing/experiencing the clothes and absorbing all of that without caring too much about what terms I’m doing that on.
What do you think is missing most in the current fashion industry setup that would make it easier to build a new designer label globally? Is this the thing you’d most like to change about the industry?
The risks in buying in larger department stores or boutiques combined with the difficulties hampering independent boutiques. For instance, in the last few years, we’ve not seen many new risk-taking boutiques open in London (although menswear stores have flourished) and with bank loans increasingly difficult to obtain, this will probably continue. Without that buying support, it is difficult for a young designer to get started, to get those initial accounts and to grow their business.
“The answer might be for young designers to develop their own direct customer-to-designer relationships and this has been made easier online but it’s hard to create significant e-commerce presence.”
What role do you think the internet can play in helping a young brand emerge? Could you give us some examples of people you think are on the right track in developing their brand?
Communicating their brand online through Twitter, Tumblr, Facebook and their own websites are the obvious things to do for a brand and even then, communication should be selective with what they put out depending on what message they’re about.
“The problem is that there are still many young designers who don’t even think having a website is important or if they have one, it’s often an afterthought.”
I love the way the young British designer Charlotte Taylor is engaging with her customers through her personal blog which tracks the journey of her collection, her thought process behind her designs as well as giving insight into her business. This is a very inclusive approach and one that means other bloggers/online commenters are more likely to write/comment about her work and she’s also secured a good number of online stockists too. Julien David is another good example of someone who is totally gung ho about the internet – he has his own Tumblr blog as well as blogging for Colette, and his website is regularly updated with the right mix of inspirational content as well as self-promotion.
What do fashion consumers want today in your opinion?
I think they want interesting and storied design that is at a reasonable price. The contemporary price bracket (Carven, Alexander Wang etc…) has done unbelievably well in the last few years and is a bit more inclusive for a consumer that isn’t the typical luxury goods customer. The new generation of fashion consumers are learning about labels in a different way, are willing to buy things online and take certain chances, but might not necessarily be able to afford the Givenchy/Balenciaga pieces. Across blogs, people are engaging with DIY projects, fashion-forward looks at lower prices and are getting thoroughly more creative/experimental with their fashion choices. I think choice is the key word here – there’s such an unbelievable amount of choice of fashion open to customers all around the world and you don’t need to be in a fashion capital to have access to that. With this choice, means people become more discerning and probably demand more from what they buy.
Blogging has changed the way we receive fashion, what do you think the next online/offline movement will be? (Short of 3D projections/being able to feel the clothes we read about and other sci-fi-esque thoughts!)
I really hate questions like this…. like I’m supposed to be an ‘online’ guru because I’m a blogger. I think I see bricks and mortar shops re-asserting what they do best by doing more interesting things with their events/displays and customer interaction. I see click to ordering on looks that are immediately able to be bought – see sites like Uniqueness where seasons are no longer an issue and once they present their collections, the customer can immediately buy them. I unfortunately don’t have too much insight as I’m still getting my head round what’s going on today rather than looking forward to what the future brings!
How can bloggers play an important role in the process of building up a label? How should designers reach out to bloggers?
Bloggers are just another way to promote a designer’s work alongside websites and magazines, and as such, it’s like any other connection – most bloggers have their emails/twitter published and designers can normally reach them that way. Designers should think about the bloggers they actually admire though and contact those ones, rather than forcing themselves to contact a host of bloggers that they have no personal connection with. I like a personal email that is to the point, with a lookbook attached. I look at everything I receive and right now, it’s designers from far-flung corners in the world that I’m getting quite excited about such as Thailand and Ukraine – lots of emerging talent there.
What are your three favourite websites and why?
The Guardian – I’ve grown up with the paper and I read it incessantly!
Show Studio – MUCH better after the redesign and a site where you can get lost for hours.
eBay – I’m a total eBay fiend. It became a bit of a problem in uni when I’d have twenty packages arriving for me everyday but I’ve calmed down in recent years…
Your most precious advice to anyone starting a fashion label now?
Think about what you’re doing and whether the clothes you’re contributing are truly saying something fresh and think about strategy – who is your customer, your market, target stores etc…
Tags: 1Hundred Competition, Dazed Digital, Style Bubble, Susanna Lau, Susie Buble
